Local Guides
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Phnom Penh is the capital of Cambodia and is laid out north to south along the confluence of the Tonle Sap and Mekong Rivers. Phnom Penh is home to a population of about 2.5 million, and is a vibrant, bustling and ethnically diverse city with a mixed population of Khmer, Chinese and Vietnamese. The French left a legacy of crumbling colonial architecture, some of which has been tastefully renovated. Sidewalk |
restaurants have sprung up all over town, especially around the recently developed riverfront area along Sisowath Quay. There are bars to suit all tastes and the nightlife can be pretty lively. The main tourist attractions in Phnom Penh are the Royal Palace and National Museum, and the grisly reminders of the Khmer Rouge period at Choeung Ek and Toul Sleng.
Things to See and Do
Wats and Shrines
Wat Phnom
Wat Phnom is the symbol of the capital and the place from which Phnom Penh derives its name. The Khmer word ‘phnom’ means ‘hill’ in English so Phnom Penh literally translates as ‘Penh Hill’. It is the only hill in Phnom Penh and is located in the north-east of the city between the Boeng Kak Lake and the Tonle Sap River. According to legend, the first temple on this site was erected in 1373 to house four statues of the Buddha, deposited by the waters of the Mekong and discovered by a woman named Penh.
There is a busy little park around the slopes of the hill that hosts an array of street sellers catering to the needs of tourists, and to the constant stream of local pilgrims trekking to see the hill’s Vihara, shrines and fortune-tellers.
West of the Vihara is an enormous stupa containing the ashes of King Ponhea Yat who reigned from 1405-1467. Locals consider the Hill of Penh to be a place of good fortune and go there to pray for good luck. However, it is considered very unlucky for lovers or married couples to visit Wat Phnom together.
Wat Botum: This Wat is situated just northwest of the intersection of Sothearos and Sihanouk Boulevards, and is significant because it is one of the city’s original Wats. It was founded in 1422 by King Ponhea Yat.
Wat Lang Ka: Situated on Preah Sihanouk Blvd. near the Independence Monument.
Wat Koh: The oldest Pagoda in Phnom Penh. Located on Monivong Blvd between St.174 and St.178.
Wat Moha Montrei: Situated on the southern side of Preah Sihanouk Blvd. between St.163 and St.173 in the block east of Phsar Olympic (Olympic Market).
Wat Unalom: A monastery for tourists who want to find out more about Buddhism. This Wat is on the riverfront about 250m north of the National Museum, and across the road from the Phnom Penh Tourist Information Center. Behind the main building is a stupa containing an eyebrow hair of the Lord Buddha.
Tourist Attractions
Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda
The Royal Palace in Phnom Penh is one of the capital’s premier tourist attractions. It was designed by the famous Khmer architect Oknha Tep Nimith Mak and was constructed between 1866 and 1870, during the reign of King Norodom. The Royal Palace is located near Sisowath Quay on Sothearos Blvd. Opposite the entrance to the palace are the walls of the royal residence, and the stable of the White Elephant. There are several parts to the Royal Palace, all of which are worth seeing. The Chan Chaya Pavilion is the royal dance hall, used by the king, his relatives and high-ranking officials and Te Vinichhay Temple is the place where kings are enthroned. The royal residence itself is in Khemarin Temple.
The Silver Temple (Wat Preah Keo Morokot) is magnificent. Located south of the Royal Palace, it draws its name from over 5000 silver blocks weighing nearly 6 tons. In the center of the temple is a magnificent statue of Buddha made of Baccarat crystal. In front is a 90kg golden Buddha studded with 9,584 diamonds, dating from 1906. The walls of the temple are decorated with a series of stunning murals depicting the entire Ramayana story.
Open 8.00am-11.00am, and 2.00pm-5.00pm. Entry costs $6.25 for foreigners.
Please dress modestly for visits to the palace: a strict dress code applies to all visitors. Photography is forbidden in some areas.
River Front
To the east of the city are the Tonle Sap and Bassac Rivers. This is where the Tonle Sap and Mekong Rivers divide, and is known to the Khmers as Chaktomuk, meaning four faces. The Tonle Sap continues southwards as the Bassac River. The riverfront has undergone a revival in recent years and is now home to numerous pubs, restaurants, hotels and shops. It is a nice place for an evening stroll and attracts tourists and locals alike.
The Independence Monument
The monument was built in 1958 to symbolize the independence Cambodia gained from France in 1953. The French fully abandoned their colonial interests in Indochina following defeat by the Vietnamese at the battle of Dien Bien Phu in May 1954.
Independence is celebrated annually in Cambodia on November 9th. The monument is built in a distinctive Khmer style and doubles as a memorial to former Cambodian patriots. It is located at the junction of Sihanouk Boulevard and Norodom Boulevard, south-west of the Royal Palace.
After Dark
Cambodian-style nightclubs are an acquired taste but should be experienced for their sheer energy. They invariably feature a live band and dancing girls. Phnom Penh’s clubs also have incredible stage sets and light and sound systems.
Attractive female escorts known locally as ‘taxi girls’ are commonplace in Phnom Penh’s western bars and clubs and barrang [foreign] men can expect a lot of attention. HIV AIDS is now widespread in Cambodia and is very common among those working in the sex industry. Prostitution is illegal in Cambodia and all foreigners visiting the country should be aware of these facts.
Chroy Changvar Bridge
Known as the Cambodia Japan Friendship Bridge, it was first constructed in 1966, and had a design very different from the one that stands today. It was twice mined and destroyed by the Khmer Rouge forces in the 1973-1975 war.
The bridge was abandoned and the damage from the war was left un-repaired. It was not until after the Vietnamese invasion in January 1979, and the liberation of Cambodia, that the population returned to live in Phnom Penh, and the government began to restore the city’s infrastructure. However, the cost of rebuilding the bridge could not be met at this time due to financial constraints. Reconstruction work finally began on the bridge in 1995 thanks to a generous donation from the Japanese government. Japan also provided skilled industrial engineers and labor to assist with, and oversee the completion of the project.
Museums
Choeung Ek
The Khmer Rouge regime under its leader Saloth Sar (Pol Pot) controlled Cambodia from 1975-1979. On April 17th, 1975 all citizens of Phnom Penh were moved out of the city by the Khmer Rouge, and forced to begin new lives farming the rural areas of the country. During this period, around 2.5 million Cambodians lost their lives. Most of the deaths were due to poor nutrition, overwork, absence of medical care and neglect. However, the regime also brutally killed thousands of people it suspected of treachery. It is important to note that there are ‘killing fields’ all over Cambodia. However, the best known is at Choeung Ek, located about 30 minutes drive from Phnom Penh at Stung Mean Chey. The road is good and the museum is clearly signposted.
Over 17,000 men, women, children and infants were executed at Choeung Ek. Many of the dead had been detained and tortured at the equally notorious S-21 prison (now the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum). Following interrogation at Toul Sleng, prisoners were often transported to Choeung Ek for execution. Choeung Ek is still a grisly, wretched place dominated by a tall stupa containing the skulls of over 8,000 victims of the regime arranged by age and gender. Further human remains are sometimes visible in the makeshift graves surrounding the stupa. Please be respectful of these should you be unfortunate enough to encounter them.
Visits to Choeung Ek or S21 are a matter of personal choice. These are not easy or pleasant places to witness, and tourists should be aware of that before making a decision to see them. Both sites may seem out of joint with the friendship and courtesy you will have experienced in Cambodia. However, they form a very real and unpleasant part of the nation’s history.
The museum opens from 7.30am-5.30pm. Entry costs $2.
Contact 023 880 278 for further information.
E-mail jcr@jc-royal.com
Web site: www.cekillingfield.com.kh
Toul Sleng Genocide Museum
Prior to the Khmer Rouge take-over, Toul Sleng was the Toul Svay Prey High School. In 1975 the school was occupied by Pol Pot’s security forces and turned into one of a number of nationwide detention and interrogation centers. Its innocuous setting, in a quiet suburb of the capital, was matched by an innocuous reference number: Security Prison 21 (S-21 for short). It soon became the largest center of incarceration and torture in the country. Most of the 17,000 internees, including a handful of westerners, were subsequently taken to the Choeung Ek ‘killing field’ and executed. Incredibly, the regime kept accounts of all interrogations and confessions and these incriminating files were discovered following the Vietnamese invasion in 1979. The files have since been the subject of detailed, historical research and have provided a unique perspective on the paranoia and mistrust that affected the Khmer Rouge regime from top to bottom.
The museum is open from 7.30am-5.30pm. Entry costs $3. The array of photographs of detainees towards the end of the tour is particularly harrowing, as is the collection of instruments of torture used during interrogations.
Contact 023 216 045 for further information.
National Museum
The National Museum was built in 1917-1920, and is located just north of the Royal Palace. Its stylish, airy galleries contain many ancient artifacts including a range of carvings and lingas rescued from theft at the Angkor site. The School of Fine Arts has its headquarters behind the museum.
The museum is open Tuesday-Sunday from 7.30am-5.30pm. Entry costs $3 for foreigners and 500 riel for Khmers. It attracts many international visitors, and is easily combined with a trip to the Royal palace. Photographing the museum’s exhibits is forbidden.